Las Leñas, Argentina
Las Leñas had been on my list for years. When the snow is good, it's one of the most unique ski destinations in South America, so I jumped at the chance to head down there with Icelantic Skis.
Getting there was a mission. After about 43 hours of travel—including airport layovers and a six-hour bus ride—I finally made it to the resort. The first thing I noticed was what everyone had been warning me about: there wasn't much snow. The base looked more like spring than the middle of ski season.
The next morning we headed out to hit a small jump we'd found the day before. It wasn't anything huge, but it was a fun way to get moving after two days of travel.
The following day we had the chance to go cat skiing on the backside of the resort. On the drive out, I remember looking out the window wondering if we'd made a mistake. We were driving over dirt and rocks most of the way.
Then we dropped into our first run.
The snow wasn't deep, but it was surprisingly soft. We spent the day finding small airs, exploring the terrain, and making the most of what we had. Looking back, those few runs ended up being the best skiing of the entire trip.
The next day, the other guys took the day off, so i went out by myself to see what i could find on the resort backcountry. Luckily i had my gopro with me and was able to capture some good photos up on Entre Rios, one of the peaks behind the resort. It was about a 1.5 hour hike in high winds on mostly loose rocks to the summit. But the views were amazing at the top!
A few days later Las Leñas announced it was closing three weeks early because of the lack of snow.
Not exactly the ending any of us were hoping for.
Instead of chasing snow that wasn't there, we changed plans and headed to Mendoza. It ended up reminding me that every ski trip doesn't have to revolve around skiing 100% (The exchange rate was great at the time so we were able to eat great 3 course meals for about $20.) Great food, great wine, and a few days exploring Argentina wasn't a bad backup plan.
Would I go back?
Absolutely, but I'd keep an eye on the snowpack before booking.
Las Leñas has some incredible terrain, and in a good winter I can see why people speak so highly of it. My trip happened to fall during one of the leanest seasons they'd had in years.
Sometimes that's just skiing.
Trip Details
Location: Las Leñas, Argentina
Dates: September 2018
Trip: Filming with Icelantic Skis
Photos: Eric Robert, Claudio Margaride
Skis: Icelantic
Camera: GoPro